How I got my hair to grow past that stopping point…

If you’re like me, growing really long hair these days is not a small feat.  It is terribly difficult. However, occasionally I see ladies with extremely long and healthy hair, no breakage, with full hair all the way to the ends, and I don’t know how they did it.  Because my own hair seemed to be stuck just below shoulder length for so many years, I thought that it was at its maximum growth length, and that the hair actually stopped growing then.  This puzzled me, because my roots would keep growing, and I would re-colour them often, but the ends of my hair were always feathery and thin, and hit the same spot below the shoulders.  I finally thought to myself, it had to be something else happening, because hair doesn’t stop growing.  And even though I couldn’t really see it happening, it had to be that the ends were self trimming themselves by breaking off when I wasn’t looking.  And that was why I constantly had to wait a year for a centimeter of growth!  One visit to an over enthusiastic hair dresser, and any length I had gained would be gone, and my hair would get even shorter.  It doesn’t help that my hair is naturally super dry, it makes aged hair ends very brittle, and break off.

I didn't really like my hair length six months ago.  I started using a wide tooth comb then to see if it would help it grow thicker and longer...especially on the ends...
My hair isn’t really that short in this photo, but this was my stopping point.  It would never grow past below the shoulders!

Not that there is anything wrong with short, or medium lengths.  I’d really love to try a wavy, layered bob one day, but not until I conquer some super long locks and defy what I thought was my stopping length.  There is just something romantic and overly feminine about long, wild unruly hair.  Another reason I’m not cutting my hair short is because if I ever get married again, my bridal hair-do has to be super long for drama, and to show it’s something I worked for…and trust me, growing hair is a lot of work. (a metaphor for getting engaged and a successful marriage, perhaps? Nah.)

Tips for bettering/helping hair growth!

1. SATIN.  Okay, so I’ve always loved my luxurious-feeling satin bed sheets that I got from Urban Outfitters on sale years ago.  But I love them even more now, since I read somewhere that rubbing your hair on cotton sheets while you sleep can cause breakage.  If you don’t have satin pillowcases and sheets, I heard that a silk scarf on your pillow case works just as well.  Sounds a little crazy, but who knows, it might work.

2.  Get yourself a wide toothed comb.  I was using all these thick hair brushes, with rough bristles for the longest time, and seeing huge amount of hair collected in the brushes after I comb.  Common sense spoke to me that a big part of my hair growth was being thwarted by dense brushes.  I now comb gingerly over knots and kinks with my wide-toothed comb that is low tech, and wonderful.  It only cost me a dollar at the local barber supply.

3.   Condition like CRAZY.  Go further than using a conditioner labeled for “dry hair” by adding coconut oil and honey to the conditioner to amp it up.  I wrote an article about this once, so click here if you want some inspiration on that topic. Also use a leave-in conditioner/oil.  I love, love to use organic coconut oil.  Softens your hair so much and smells heavenly…apply to the ends and midshaft daily to discourage breakage.

4. You have to BABY YOUR HAIR.  Don’t do anything to it that may make it stressed out.  No teasing, no hairspray, nothing that causes tangles.  No harsh chemical treatments such as bleaching or perming.  Braid it or put it in a bun, if it is bothering you, so that it stays protected and out of your way.  Limit the shampooing you do to it.  Invest in a good dry shampoo, or better yet make and use your own dry shampoo.  The less your rub it, the better.  Don’t tug on it, and just treat it well.  And in 3 months you should notice a difference in fullness and length, I really did.

Here I am showing off the length of my hair.  It grew about two inches in six months.  That is with trims occasionally so it's actually good!
Here I am showing off the length of my hair. It grew about two inches in six months. That is with trims occasionally so it did grow a lot! 🙂

 

Movie inspiration: Makeup from the “Flowers of War”

I’m not very political.  Well, not from being shamefully ignorant of current everyday world matters, but by choice.  I am individualistic, and things that move me are personal and internal.  But I recently watched a movie called The Flowers of War, which came out in 2011 about the atrocity that was the Japanese occupation of China in 1937 during WWII in the city Nanking. There was a lot of violence and rape during this invasion, and the Japanese Imperial Army was painted as sub-human, and most heinous in this movie, attacking the innocent civilian women of China with dehumanizing rape and murder. Any female was a target, even school children… The premise of the movie is that women from the two most farthest social groups: school girls 13 years of age and prostitutes from the red light district, are thrust together while hiding out in a Swiss Catholic Cathedral, trying to keep their lives, while being led and aided by an American posing to be a priest.  It’s based on terrible events, but one that needs to be heard.  My family background is Chinese, and it hurts me deeply to learn about how savage the attack was on the city of Nanking.  Without putting too much blame on the Japanese, I still can’t believe how one Asian nation can rape and pillage another Asian nation with such ferocity and dis-compassion.  I will forever be scarred knowing this war actually happened.

But politics aside, I really loved the fashion and make-up in this movie. The actresses playing the prostitutes in this film really “brought it” in terms of vintage Chinese make-up and fashion.  The times were sad, but the visual feel of these glamorous women were not.  If Western culture is guilty of objectifying and overly feminizing Eastern cultures in the past, this movie totally justifies it.  So many beautiful Chinese actresses, so much wonderful fashion and make up looks.  I examined the looks in this movie and was inspired to create my own modern day Chinese prostitute make-up to beguile and enchant here in present day North America.

The hookers were well spoken and smart in this movie, without sacrificing their femininity.
The hookers were well spoken and smart in this movie, without sacrificing their femininity.  Look at their gorgeous make-up palette!  Minimal, but so striking.
Ni Ni as Yu Mo in The Flowers of War (2011).
Nothing dreary about the colourful fashion of the times. The star actress Ni Ni wears this vintage dress with the confidence only a real lady can possess.

How I made my version of the look:

1.  Thin eyebrows. Vintage Chinese make-up had the thinnest eyebrows possible, lined to perfection.  Update it by perfectly grooming your brows, a bit on the skinny side.  Not a hair should be out of place.  Line and fill with brow shadow.

2.  Thin and exaggerated black liquid liner on the top eyelid.  Make it fluid, make it thin and as pointed high as you can go, without looking too pronounced or prostitute like.  After all, we want to be inspired, but we don’t want to look like a 1940’s hooker.

3. Lightly line the bottom eyelid or skip altogether.  I still want to line the bottom, even though in the movie, the bottom eyelid looked bare and bright.  I think bottom lining is important to make your eyes pop.  But lightly line so that the star of the show is the top lid’s liquid liner.

4.  Minimalist eye shadow.  This is important…because the star of this make-up is the exaggerated liquid liner, the eye shadow should be barely noticeable, but still important, to create a look of polished elegance.  I used a slightly tan shadow on my top lids to give warmth while staying true to this vintage look.

5.  Red, red lipstick. Or tinted red lip balm.  Whatever you are comfy with!

6.  What do you think?

This is my take on this movie inspired make-up.  Not as amazingly stunning as Ni Ni’s, but passably pretty for day to day?

I work in the financial district, but I’m still dying my hair purple!

*disclaimer*: This is how I lift and colour my black hair…but everyone’s hair is different and reactions vary.  Before attempting to colour process your own hair, please use precautions like gloves, or sample test hair.  Also, my instructions are for the brands that I use.  Be sure to read the label of your own products for instruction and always consult a professional if in doubt!

I always get people asking me about how I colour my hair to be a such a vibrant colour, (ie. punchy red) without bleaching out my naturally black hair. Most vibrant colour dye such as manic panic, adore…etc will not show up in black hair, not without bleaching out the natural colour first.

I, however, don’t need to bleach because I am not trying to get the bright, or pastel punk colours that “alternative” girls are sporting.  Bleaching is unhealthy for the hair, and because I am modest,  I don’t want all that attention over my hair colour.   Also at my age, it is harder to wear neon bright hair colours because I want a job that is not at a goth store or at piercing/tattoo parlour, no offense to those that have those jobs.  But still, I want to be different. So what I settle for is lightening my hair 2-3 shades to a honey brown colour, and then adding the vibrant colour to that.  That way, I get to stay a brunette, that shines a vibrant colour when my hair hits the light.  This process does not need bleach, but uses high volume peroxide mixed with an ash colour toner that lifts and tones in the same step!  Toning is the KEY.  Toning neutralizes the red/orange tones in dark hair that are in over abundance when one starts lightening hair.  If you’ve ever tried lifting dark hair, you’ve probably been horrified to see that it turns an ugly rusty orange colour when in mid process.  Not pretty at all.  Not only is this orange/red pigment ugly, it interrupts the way we perceive any colour you put on top.  Toner helps mute this effect. I went to art school, so this is how colour works.  Vibrant tones are cancelled out by rusty colours.

This is what you will need to lighten and tone.  Don't forget gloves!
This is what you will need to lighten and tone. Don’t forget gloves!

I do my roots with 40 volume peroxide, which is the strongest I’d recommend, mixed with Wella Colour Charm gel in Ash Blonde.  The ratio is 2:1.  (This combination of gel colourant mixed with peroxide is similar to what you find in the pharmacies prepackaged.  But getting them separately at a barber/beauty supply gives you more control over the performance and quality of the product.  So try not to get those “boxed colours” if possible.  And you save money too.) Then I applied it to my roots.  The dye turned dark blue, which seems odd, but trust me, that is the toning process happening.  In half an hour, I’ll wash off the toner to reveal a beautiful honey brown, almost blonde colour.  Yay, no roots!

Section out hair and apply to those untimely roots!
Section out hair and apply to those untimely roots!

After shampooing the toner and peroxide out, I skip conditioning and lightly towel dry my hair.  It is important to skip conditioning, because most vibrant colours don’t use peroxide to penetrate the hair, but instead use conditioners to.  Leaving your hair clean and thirsty for conditioning makes vibrant colouring stick better.  The brand that I use is Adore.  I’ve been using a bright pinky red the last few times, so this time I changed it up with a redish purple colour called Violet Gem.  I mix the dye with conditioner to get the right consistency and to stretch it out.  Then I apply it all over my hair.  Since there is no peroxide in the colouring, it actually feels nice going on.  And it smells pretty good too!

IMG_0444
Purple mess! but after you wash it out, it’s worth it!

I leave it in a plastic cap for about an hour, treating it with heat from a hair dryer occasionally to help it set and absorb into the hair.  After an hour or more, I rinse out the Adore colour and am left with a rich burgundy purple colour!

The thing to remember when colouring hair is that your hair dictates how the results will end up.  Adore’s violet gem colour is actually a very mid toned purple colour.  But I noticed that my hair has a lot of trouble absorbing blues and purples into the strand, even after processing with toner.  Sometimes, to get the results you want, you may have to experiment…and some colours turn out better than others.  My first trial of using Violet Gem disappointed me because it was not as intense as I wanted and washed out quickly…so I repeated the step of using Violet Gem colourant on shampooed hair again the next day with a less diluted, more concentrated colour and got better results!  Always be willing to experiment when trying things at home…and redo if nessesary!

yay, I'm a purple haired goddess now!
yay, I’m a purple haired goddess now!